During the Hola Mohalla festival in Anandpur Sahib, Punjab, the spirits soar so high, prompting even the beasts of burden to flaunt their twirled moustaches. It's the pounding hooves that steal the show. As numerous horses thunder through a crowded passage, their riders fiercely aim to pierce small clusters of hay just a few feet away,l memories of the past ignite in my mind. Formidable-looking Sikhs armed to the teeth with scimitars, spears, and hatchets throng the place..
Every Holi in Anandpur Sahib, a town in north-east Punjab along the Sutlej, the Hola Mohalla festival is celebrated. Sikh warriors, amidst the festivities, engage in a unique spectacle—charging imaginary targets. Anandpur, known for its numerous gurudwaras, hosts this annual event in a dusty plain surrounded by rolling hills. The grand finale of the three-day celebration showcases traditional Sikh martial skills, the Gatkha on a grassy field by the Charan Ganga River. It is a remarkable conclusion to days of worship and revelry during the Hola Mohalla festival.
At noon, the festivities kick off with Gathka exponents parading traditional weapons onto the field. Gathka, a Sikh martial art, incorporates both various weapons and gracefully choreographed movements. Under the watchful eyes of seasoned instructors, enthusiastic young fighters engage in simulated battles, wielding sticks, knives, axes, and swords. Teams from Gathka schools all over Punjab participate in the competition, although there are no prizes, according to Gurmeet Singh.
Gurmeet Singh, a teenage Gathkabaaz from Patiala, has dedicated himself to training since the age of nine. As he patiently awaits his turn, he playfully swats a noisy apprentice with his rhino hide shield.
During a lively gathering, it's evident that carnival vibes are in full swing. A Punjab police band, adorned in kilts and wielding bagpipes, introduces a surreal touch to the special afternoon. Beside me, fellow teenagers can't help but giggle at the band's next musical endeavour. The familiar notes of the Bollywood hit "Singh is Kinng" fill the air, serving as a cherished memory in this locale. The festivities are in full swing.
The tradition of festivities
Hola Mohalla, a 300-year-old tradition, originated as a response to the increasing intolerance of the Mughal Empire in the 17th century. Guru Gobind Singh, the tenth Sikh Guru, founded the Khalsa, a group of warrior monks, urging them to prepare for combat in Anandpur. Defending Sikh honour and adopting distinctive symbols of Sikh attire became integral to the faith. The language changed, with several words transitioning to the masculine form. Notably, Holi was transformed into Hola.
The celebration of Hola Mohalla reflects a proud martial tradition. Various Sikh legions, known as jathas and misls, actively engaged in wiping out the Mughals, repelled invaders from Nadir Shah to Ahmad Shah Abdali, and, under Maharaja Ranjit Singh, successfully conquered significant portions of Afghanistan.
Historical incidents
In the era of the British Raj, influenced significantly by the prowess of the Sikhs and their penchant for classification, the concept of 'martial races' emerged. This notion, deeply rooted in the connection between martial abilities and specific races, was accompanied by a generous infusion of testosterone. The real spectacle unfolds during Hola Mohalla at Anandpur, where the term takes on tangible meaning.
The highlight of the event is the arrival of the Nihangs, the name tracing back to the Persian word for crocodile. These warriors, stationed in armed camps known as 'chhaawnis' around the town, first pay homage at Anandgarh—an ancient fort and gurudwara complex—before embarking on a ceremonial march to Charan Ganga in the early evening.
Even with prior warnings, one is unprepared for the overwhelming sight of a vibrant sea of humanity. Countless Nihangs, adorned in electric blue attire, fill the ground. Many are mounted on an array of combat-ready creatures, including horses, elephants, decorated mules, and the occasional camel. Amidst this spectacle, other Sikhs, sporting rifles, sunglasses, and carefully groomed moustaches, arrive in various vehicles—SUVs, jeeps, tractors, and trucks—adding to the eclectic display of martial fervour.
The glorious nihangs
Adorned in magnificent turbans and beards, clad in saffron sashes and diverse regalia over their blue chogas (robes), the Nihangs wield banners, ornate spears, ceremonial fans, and an abundance of swords. This gathering is not just an annual conclave but also a vibrant showcase of martial prowess where various sects and clans convene at a central point. Esteemed figures like Sants, Babas, and Jathedhars are acknowledged, and old connections are rekindled. The ceremonial combat ensues swiftly.
As the spirits levels skyrocket, Hola Mohalla transforms into a realm of heightened machismo. The very dust exudes the essence of traditions steeped in martyrdom and honour. Sikh history echoes through loudspeakers.Notably, there's a noticeable scarcity of women in the audience.
Even the animals seem attuned to the prevailing testosterone-fueled energy. Restive horses snort, mirroring the warlike spirit embraced by their masters. The infusion of bhang into their feed might be one explanation to their spirited demeanour.
In Sikh tradition, it's not just about martial courage. Equality and serving others are essential beliefs. An evening stroll in Anandpur provides clear proof.
In one camp, Karnal Singh, a farmer and volunteer with a sword at his side, stirs a massive pot. He's preparing dal for tomorrow's langar, to be served with rotis and subzi. Langars, communal kitchens in gurudwaras and Sikh festivals, are vital for feeding pilgrims.
During Hola Mohalla, over 20 lakh people visit Anandpur Sahib, as per the manager at Takht Sri Keshgarh Sahib. It's a significant task to prepare this meal. The Punjab government makes special arrangements, but many pilgrims manage on their own.
Sikh community coming together to celebrate
In every corner, people are settled in large tents, sleeping inside or under vehicles, and even in makeshift trailers attached to tractors. Their main focus seems to be attending worship at the gurudwaras and participating in the various melas that have popped up everywhere.
Hola Mohalla is not just any festival; it's a massive celebration. From Ferris wheels to Walls of Death, featuring not only motorcycles but also a Maruti 800, it's a grand funfair, unlike anything else, even in India.
As the sun sets and the chants of 'Wahe Guru Da Khalsa, Wahe Guru Di Fateh' fill the Charan Ganga ground, there's a unanimous feeling among visitors that, for one day every spring in Punjab's dusty plains, Singh is undeniably the King.
*Based on the article written by Praveen Dass, published in the Times of India on 15th March 2010